Reply Quote 0. Joined: Sep 10, Posts: 14, Well if you're truly drawing W at 12V then you are drawing 67A. At Joined: Nov 7, Posts: 23, Joined: Oct 22, Posts: 80, Joined: Sep 7, Posts: 26, Fuzzbutt's approach is correct - for choosing the fuse on the main power line to the amp. The only proper way to choose the fuse in the amp itself is to use the fuse spec'd by the amp manufacturer. If you bought the amp new, it would have the proper fuse preinstalled.
If it was new and you are blowing the fuse then I suspect an improper speaker load. The fuse is intended to blow when too much current passes through the amp. If you bought the amp used, then I wonder why the wrong fuse is in it. Finally, call me a doubter, but there are not that many W amps. Is that amp rated for W continuous power?
At what impedance? Joined: Jan 23, Posts: 1, Ideally you should have 2 fuses, one to protect the wire and one to protect the amplifier. One should be located as close to the battery as possible and be rated for the gauge of wire it's protecting.
The other should be located on the amplifier itself and is specified by the manufacturer. If it's blowing with the specified fuse something is wrong internally and drawing too much current. Oh sorry, yes I was talking for the main power line. I read over the part where it's the one that's actually IN the amp.
The equations stay the same, but you have no good way of knowing what to plug into those equations without knowing the amp design. The owner's manual of the amp should specify the fuse size. Make sure you are using an appropriate speaker load. Joined: Mar 21, Posts: 3, Whatever the owner's manual suggests. If no manual, I'd do the math based on I'm gonna guess you won't be maxing this thing out in a parking lot using just the battery, because doing so will quickly drain the battery If you install an appropriate fuse and it's still blowing them, that points to a wiring problem, either externally speaker wiring or a short somewhere , or internally the amp itself may be effed.
Joined: Jul 12, Just cause they slap a sticker on there that say w doesn't mean it is. As the other poster said, there aren't a whole lot of W 4-channel amps out there. Max power tells you nothing useful. That's purely a marketing ploy. RMS power ie continuous power is listed as 75W per channel at 4 ohms. So this thing is really a W amp.
I found the owners manual online for that amp. If the amp is indeed the CW, the manual says it should have 2 x 20A fuses. CRT Television Manuals. DVD Player Manuals. DVD Recorder Manuals. DVR Manuals. Electronic Accessory Manuals. Flat Panel Television Manuals. Fryer Manuals. Garbage Disposal Manuals. Headphones Manuals. Home Theater Screen Manuals. Home Theater System Manuals. Label Maker Manuals. Landscape Lighting Manuals. Laptop Docking Station Manuals.
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