Central installing system vacuum

You can mirror the branching of each inlet run from the main trunk by splicing your low voltage wiring to a main line using wire nuts or connectors.

Secure the low voltage wiring to the PVC using cable ties to hold them in place and keep them easy to re-locate if needed. Use a system such as different colored wires to remember and maintain the proper polarity along the entire run.

Before you close everything up, be sure to make sure the system functions properly. You can do this by briefly running it with all inlet doors closed to observe the amount of exhaust there should be little to none. You can also walk the house while the system is being tested to listen for any obvious leaks.

That may indicate you forgot to glue up a section of PVC. While this by no means walks you through every little detail to installing a central vacuum system in your new or existing home, we hope it proves helpful. Consult an electrician if you need help with the wiring. As always, we recommend the use of a professional if any of this seems too difficult to tackle by yourself.

Still, installing a central vacuum system remains one of those projects that yield lasting benefits. Many people shy away from a central vacuum system, thinking them too difficult to install or too complex.

We take a different view. When in doubt, grab a licensed contractor, but this is the type of project you might be surprised to find is easier than you think. When he's not remodeling part of his house or playing with the latest power tool, Clint enjoys life as a husband, father, and avid reader. Working on a myriad of feature films , Clint honed his skills as a dialogue editor, foley editor, and sound designer. After founding the CD Media, Inc. He also heads up the Pro Tool Innovation Awards , an annual awards program honoring innovative tools and accessories across the trades.

Crediting his excellent staff for the success of what is now the largest power tool review publication in the industry, Clint DeBoer hopes to see continued growth for the company as it rapidly expands its reach. Pro Tool Reviews critically reviews hundreds of hand tools, power tools, and accessories each year to help inform users about the best and newest products in the industry. Reaching everyone from the construction industry professional and tradesman to the serious DIYer, Pro Tool Reviews helps tool consumers shop better, work smarter, and stay aware of what tools and products can help put them at the top of their game.

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Of all the tools, the best table saws provide tons of versatility. With […]. So this year I finally decided to hack our Christmas tree stand so I could use a power tool to secure it.

The best runs are short, straight, and direct. To test your layout, stretch the hose and wand or a small rope of equal length from inlets to the far reaches of each room.

Plan to position the unit on or near an exterior wall so the exhaust line can be easily routed outdoors. The power unit requires good ventilation for long life and proper operation. A central vacuum system utilizes a system of plastic pipe to carry dust and debris from the vacuum cleaner through walls and beneath floors to the power unit and canister that collects it. Measuring, cutting, and assembling these pipes is a relatively easy job—the hardest part is usually drilling and cutting holes through wall studs and other framing members.

Begin the installation of a central vacuum system by mounting the power unit to a wall. Though methods may vary according to the make and model, the following instructions show you the basic techniques.

Hang the vacuum canister on its bracket and then hold up the exhaust line assembly, complete with muffler and elbows, and mark where it meets the wall. Cut through to the outside and mount the exhaust vent and its exterior wall cap. If you are building a new home or doing a major renovation, this is the perfect time to install a central vacuum system.

The method shown here is for a situation where tubing will run beneath the floor. Apply glue only to the outside of the tubing. This will prevent glue from creating obstructions which could clog your system.

Wrap the strands in a clockwise direction around the screws on the back of the inlet valve. Tighten the screws. Now attach a weight to the end of the low-voltage wire and drop it down to the basement or crawlspace.

Have a length of wire coat hanger ready with one end bent into a hook. Insert the mounting bracket into the wall hole Take the hanger and insert the hooked end of the hanger into the Short 90 Degree Elbow to hold the bracket in place.

Then, slide the inlet valve face plate along the wire hanger into the mounting bracket. Screw the valve into place. Remove the wire hook. Inlet kits come with a long and a short screw, so be sure to use the short screw in the hole facing the elbow since the long screw could puncture it.

Be sure to mount the inlet valve face plate so the lid pulls down to open. Then apply glue to an adequate length of tubing and aim it upward through the hole in the sole plate and into the Short 90 Degree Elbow on the back of the mounting bracket.

See Installation Step 6 for information on installing tubing. A floor mounted inlet is another alternative. Often, the only practical solution is to install your system with the tubing going through a wall into a closet, then down through the closet floor. To use this method, select a suitable inlet valve location outside a closet exercising the same precautions as for normal wall installation. Then, using a length of coat hanger, drill a hole through both walls Fig. Hold the wire perfectly horizontal so the interior and exterior holes line up with one another.

Check for inner wall obstructions by bending a short length of coat hanger wire at a right angle and twirl the right angle piece inside the wall. Run low-voltage wire through the hole in floor and through the wall to exterior of closet.

Pass low-voltage wire through the wire guide hole in the inner wall closet assembly Fig. Place the inner wall assembly lengthwise through the wall opening and arrange the assembly so the bracket is flush with the inside surface of the wall. Attach wires to low-voltage terminals on the back of the inlet valve faceplate as previously described. Screw the inlet valve face plate to the wall bracket Fig.

To install a floor inlet valve, drill a pilot hole with a wire coat hanger and check the location as previously described. Enlarge the opening to accommodate the low-voltage connections.

Assemble a Floor Mount Adapter and attach the low-voltage wire to the inlet valve. Drop the low-voltage wire to the basement. Screw the valve to the floor. Repeat until all inlets are installed. Note: Although plastic inlet valves are acceptable as long as they are reinstalled next to the wall where no one will step on them, metal floor inlets provide added durability. Do not install floor inlets where furniture will be.

Multi-story homes usually require one or more inlets on each level. Instead of trying to line up inlet valves from one level to the next, run a separate line of tubing from the upstairs inlet valve to a branch line or to the main trunk line Fig. Install the inlet valve as previously instructed. Then, from the basement, insert a length of tubing long enough to reach through the hole in the second floor sole plate to the site for the inlet valve.

You may have to join several lengths of tubing. Measure and pre-cut these pieces and test-fit them before gluing. When applying glue, work quickly to prevent the glue at the top end of the tubing from drying before it reaches the fitting at the inlet valve. Never apply glue only to the inside of the tubing.

When upstairs, remember to aim the elbow downward. Other ways to reach the upstairs in your home are through the interiors of closets or pantries, beneath a staircase, or with floor inlets. If the inlet valve will be serviced from the attic, shorter pieces of tubing joined by couplings may be required because of overhead space restrictions.

Again, measure, test fit and when gluing, work quickly to prevent the glue from drying before the tubing reaches the inlet valve. A VacPan is a very popular option for the kitchen, mudroom and bath. Here are some tips for installation. First, determine the best place to install the dustpan, either under a cabinet Fig. Keep in mind that the leading edge of the VacPan must sit flush with the finished floor. Select a site for the inlet valve and drill a pilot hole through the floor. Go below to check that the tubing path is clear of present, or future, obstructions such as floor joists, heating ducts, plumbing, wires, etc.

Glue a length of tubing into a stud-mounting bracket assembly. Tape wire to tubing at assembly elbow and again close to end, and tuck remaining wire into bottom of tubing. Plan the location of your dust pan to be conveniently located for sweeping clean-ups. Also consider ease of access of vacuum tube piping connections during installation.

For maximum clearance, use a short 90 degree elbow for connection at the inlet. Do not glue the connection between the VacPan and elbow.

Teflon tape may be used if required. Two inch wire re-inforced flex pipe may also be used. Run vacuum tube piping and low voltage wire from the main piping to the inlet location. Access for final piping connections must be made. If access is available from below, cut an access hole through the subfloor underneath the cabinet, positioned so that final piping connections can be made by reaching through the access hole.

Access can be made through the finished cabinet floor. A cover plate can be used to cover the hole after installation. If required, score the back of the cover plate with a knife and snap it along the grooves for height adjustment. Attach low voltage wires to the VacPan terminal connections marked "low voltage only". Slide the VacPan into the mounting slot and secure it to the toe kick using the two screws provided.

To install a VacPan in an existing wall, locate the area between the studs. The inlet should be installed tight to one side in stud space. The 2x4 wall bottom plate between the two studs must be removed. This can be achieved from below by using a hole saw. In new home construction, the bottom wall plate can be removed directly. Floor contractor must run flooring under this block.

Run vacum tube piping and low voltage wire from the main line to the inlet's location and make access for final piping connections. If access is available from below, cut an access hole through the subfloor underneath the wall between the studs, positioned so that final piping connections can be made by reaching through the access hole. Access can be made through the finished wall as well.

A cover plate can then be used to cover this hole after completion of installation. Attach the low voltage wires to the VacPan terminal connections marked "low voltage only" and slide the inlet into it's mounting slot, securing it to the wall with the screws provided.

Reach through the access hole and make the final fitting connections. Installing a DrawerVac. This guide will provide simple installation instructions for a drawer-activated inlet in your central vacuum system.

DrawerVac requires a level mounting surface for installation. It may be necessary to level the undercounter surface using plywood or other sheeting material. If you are installing the inlet in a drawer application, trimming the back of the drawer may be necessary to create the required clearance for DrawerVac to fit. Begin by mounting the cover to the under-counter surface using the 2 interior screw holes as shown to the left.

Be sure the front edge of the cover is flush with the cabinet face. Warning: Be sure not to drill or screw through the top of the counter. Install the DrawerVac assembly using the remaining 8 screws, with the tray inserted in the shell.

Connect the central vacuum piping to the inlet using either solid or flexible central vacuum piping. Connect the low voltage wire with the 2 screws shown on the right to complete your installation.

Installing the Power Unit. Attach the power unit to the wall withing six feet of a grounded electrical outlet ensuring it will be easily accessible for emptying the dirt receptacle, at least 18" from the floor. For proper motor cooling, there must be at least 12" between the unit and the ceiling. Do not install the power unit where the ambient temperature regularly exceeds degrees Fahrenheit.

If mounting on plaster, wall board or panel walls, be sure mounting bolts enter studs. If mounting on a block or concrete wall, drill the holes with a masonry bit and insert plastic or lead anchors. As an alternative to mounting on concrete walls, suspend 2"x4" studs or plywood from overhead.

To power the central vacuum system, a 24V low-voltage cable is routed to each inlet valve. Parallel connection is made according to the figure to the left.

It is recommended that low-voltage cable be installed in a conduit pipe and this is absolutely necessary when cables are to be hidden in cast concrete. If the cable becomes defective, it is also much easier to change it afterwards. In these installations, only certified electrical components may be used. To attach the low-voltage wires, strip the wire and crimp the strands into the two spade terminals provided.

Attach the terminals and plug the power unit into the dedicated electrical outlet. If an outlet is not located within 6 feet of the power unit's location, an electrician can carry out the installation. Once plugged in, the sentry light should come on.

Turn on the switch, if applicable, and the power unit should turn on. Attach the remaining section of tubing to the power unit with connectors and clamps. Do not glue this connection because you may need to disconnect the system at a future date. For added installation convenience, some power units may have inlet connections on either side.

If your system uses a muffler, clamp it to the exhaust port. Please note that true cyclonic units must be vented to the outside. Other units may be vented to the outside as well. Use the same tubing and fittings.